Bird Care

Grooming: Beaks and Toenails


An overgrown beak may get in the way of the bird feeding and grooming itself. Overgrown toenails may impair the bird’s ability to perch, may force inadequate foot posture, and may cause the bird to get entangled. If a toenail gets caught and in its frantic attempts to free itself the bird rips the nail off, bleeding will ensue. This is why providing your bird with lots of chew toys and proper perches is essential.

Remember that the beak tip may be “dead” (in the same sense the tips of our own nails are dead) but it IS attached to living tissue. That living tissue is provided with ample blood flow (this is what brings in oxygen and the “building materials” that make up the beak) AND with nerve endings (because the bird uses the beak to palpate and sense its food and environment). The beak should be treated gently!

Beak grooming is usually done in two ways: by using a file to wear down the tip, or by using a dremmel to likewise remove excess growth. A dremmel can be a handy tool, but only at the hands of an experienced operator. [Should bleeding occur, it can be staunched by using a coagulation aid and direct pressure. Ferric compounds can be used on a bleeding beak and on bleeding toenails BUT SHOULD NOT BE APPLIED TO FLESH because it can cause tissue damage. So, if you must use a ferric compound (such as QuikStop(tm)), be careful not to apply it to the insides of the beak, or to the bird’s cere (“nose”) nor any other fleshy body part.

Toenails can likewise be groomed using a file or dremmel, but most often the tips are simply clipped off. With small birds, this is easily done using scissors or toenail clippers. Special toenail scissors are also sold: these have a little notch upon which to rest the toenail, and also have rounded tips for added safety. If the toenail is very overgrown, it is likely the “quick” (blood supply) will also be overgrown which means that when the toenail is clipped, it probably will bleed.

In such cases, it’s recommended that the toenail be trimmed anyhow and the ensuing blood flow staunched. A few weeks later, the toenails will be groomed again (in the interim, the quick will have receded), and this process is repeated until the toenails are brought to a safe, comfortable length.

If bleeding happens while grooming the beak or toenails, the owner should attempt to stop blood flow. Direct pressure helps and so does applying some QuikStop(tm), flour, cornstarch, even a small piece of paper. It’s a good idea to have some sort of coagulation aid nearby BEFORE grooming begins.

Another “trick” to help keep the beak and toenails in good shape is to provide the bird with safe, natural tree branches as perches. Birds love stripping the bark, and the rough surface does wonders for dulling the tips of the toenails and for helping slough off the beak surface as it grows. Concrete perches are also available: the rough surface works as a stationary filing station! If you offer this kind of perch, make sure the bird also has other perches available.

Young birds are more easily taught to accept grooming. The ideal situation is when your bird allows you to trim its toenails while it is sitting on a perch! Birds also should be “towel trained” early, if possible so they will not fear that piece of material. Gently and with great patience, cover your bird with a towel while speaking soothingly to him or her. Cover the eyes and the beak as you trim the nails on first one foot and then another. Have an experienced bird owner, aviculturist or veterinarian demonstrate the technique to you.

Published in Bird Care, Grooming

Importance of Vitamin A


Vitamin A deficiency is the most common preventable disease that avian veterinarians see in their practice Pet birds that eat only seeds (especially sunflower seeds and peanuts) are most prone to this problem. Vitamin A deficiencies increase the likelihood of secondary infections because cells that line the respiratory, reproductive and digestive tracts undergo structural change, which allows bacteria and microorganisms to penetrate the mucous membrane barriers.

The respiratory system is most often affected. A bird with vitamin A deficiency may show any of the following symptoms: sneezing, wheezing, nasal discharge, crusted or plugged nostrils, lethargy, depression, diarrhea, tail-bobbing, thinness, poor feather color, swollen eyes, ocular discharge or lack of appetite.

Though few birds actually die from vitamin A deficiency, they do die from the secondary infections common to birds with weakened resistance. Vitamin A strengthens cells so that they function properly and it enables the natural healing process to occur. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.


Further, in birds there is a complex relationship among calcium, phosphorus and vitamin D. Calcium is the major component of the skeleton and eggshell and is also present in the blood Calcium is absorbed in the intestines and vitamin D regulates that absorption. When the calcium level in the blood stream is low, vitamin D increases the absorption rate. Vegetables that contain oxalates, such as spinach, rhubarb and others, interfere with calcium absorption. High fat diets also block calcium absorption.

Phosphorus is also a component of bone and is absorbed through the intestines. There is an inverse relationship between phosphorus and calcium. If the calcium level in the bloodstream is low, more phosphorus is absorbed. If the calcium is high, less phosphorus is absorbed. Vitamin D increases the absorption of phosphorus through the intestines when the blood level of phosphorus is low.

For healthy bones, the ratio of calcium to phosphorus in the food should be about 2:1 The greater the variation from this ratio, the greater the role of vitamin D in regulating calcium and phosphorous. Fortunately, about 30% of the phosphorus present in food is available in a form that can be utilized by birds. But too much phosphorus interferes with calcium absorption.

Generally, foods that are yellow, orange or deep green in color have high vitamin A content Corn. lettuce, summer squash, grapes, apples, oranges and bananas are exceptions and are low in this vitamin.

Birds can make their own vitamin D if they have access to sunshine (not filtered by glass.) Birds cannot absorb calcium without vitamin D. Birds housed indoors on an all-seed diet lack vitamin D and calcium (and are likely to die at a young age.)

Cuttlebone is an excellent source of calcium. Full-spectrum fluorescent lights (such as Vita-Lites) that are suspended over your bird cages will allow your birds to make their own vitamin D.

If your birds are on a peletted diet, then you don’t have to worry about either calcium or vitamin D.

NOTE. In African Greys, the Calcium:Phosphorus ratio should be 2:1. If they do not get the proper ratio, they may be prone to falling off their perch, lack of coordination and seizures.

WARNING: Too much vitamin D or too much vitamin A can be harmful. Too much vitamin D causes too much absorption of calcium which results in minerals being deposited in soft tissue including kidneys. Too much vitamin A can be toxic and results in hypervitaminosis A. Bone spurs, painful joints, liver damage and renal gout are a few health problems that can result.

Vitamin A Content          IU Per 100 GRAMS 

Red Chili peppers (fresh)                21,000
Red chili peppers (dried)                77,000
Broccoli leaves                          16,000
Broccoli flowers                          3,000
Carrots (pureed)                         10,000
Sweet Potatoes                            9,000
Collards                                  9,300
Kale                                     10,000
Dandelion greens                         14,000
Spinach                                   8,000
Beef liver                               45,000
Egg yolks                                 3,000
Cantaloupe                                4,000
Turnip Leaves                             7,600

Canned pumpkin and Jalapeno peppers are good sources of Vitamin A.

The best natural foods which contain a good calcium:phosphorus level for African greys are:

broccoli, collard leaves, dandelion greens, fennel, okra, orange with the peel, parsley, spinach, turnip leaves, kelp and blackstrap molasses.

Published in Bird Care, Bird Feed

Dangers to Birds


There are many dangers for birds in your house. Make’ sure your house is ‘bird safe’. If It is safe for a baby, it will be safe for a pet bird.

  1. Close the toilet seat cover on all toilets (the bird can drown in the water).
  2. Store or dispose of all chemicals, plants, hot grease, soapy water (they love water) to where your bird can’t get to them.
  3. Do not put the cage near or against curtains (they will chew on them and get their legs caught) or any other household items the bird can chew on.
  4. Wood burning stoves, fireplaces, Teflon cookware and Teflon coated items give off fumes that can kill your bird.
  5. Keep plants away from the bird so they cannot chew (almost all plant leaves and stems are poisonous to birds).
  6. Put all electrical cords in PVC pipe or other protective piping, if possible (the birds will chew the cords and electrocute themselves).
  7. Hot light bulbs can burn your bird.
  8. Before you take your bird out of the cage, be sure all ceiling fans are turned off and have stopped rotating. Spinning ceiling fan blades can kill or maim your bird.
  9. When your bird is out of the cage, insure someone in the family is attending to it to keep it company and to protect it from its own curiosity and chewing habits.

Have a happy time with your pet bird. Give it plenty of love and attention and you will have a wonderful companion for many years to come.

Published in Bird Care